Improvement in braiding and embroidering machines



. 3Sheets--Sheet1. E. CORNELY. ding and Embroidering Machines.

N 153 ;42 PatentedJuly28,1'874.

THE GRAPHIC co. FHOTOLI'HLSS aA-l PARK PLACEINN.

3 Sheets-=Sheet 2.

E. GUBNEL Y. I Braiding and Embroidering Machines. No.i53,542.

Patented July 28,1874.

[ya/fem 021 HE GRAPHIC COlPHOTO'i-ITH3981'1 PAHK PLACE, N.Y

' v 3Sheeis-Sheet3.

E. BORNELY.

Braiding and Embroidering Machines. N0.i53,542. PatentedJuI 2a,1s74.

I THE GRAPHIC eoynom-umasau PARK PLA'csmv UNITED STATES PATENT ()FFICE.

EMIL GORNELY, OF PARIS FRANCE.

IMPROVEMENT IN BRAIDING AND EMBROIDERING MACHINES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 153,542, dated July 28, 1874; application filed June 12. 1874. I

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, EMIL OoRNELY, a resident of Paris, in the Republic of France, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Universal Embroidering-Machine, by means of which the said machine known as the Bonnaz embroidering-machine can not only do the common embroidering work, but can also braid in combination with its universal feed-motion. I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the construction and operation of my said improvements, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 represents a side view of said machine; Fig. 2, a front View, both with central vertical sections through the braiding apparatus. Figs. 3 and 4 represent detached views of the braiding-disk. Figs. 5, 6, 7, S, 9, l0, and 11 represent views of my improvements, herein after to be referred to.

In the application of my braiding attachment no changes whatever are made in the mechanism of the Bonnaz embroidering-machine, so far as relates to those parts which are above the cloth-plate and the table, and I modify only certain parts which are below the cloth-plate and the table, so as to apply to them my braiding apparatus, which will be understood by the following description and the accompanying drawings.

My attachment is equally applicable to the overseaming and embroidering machine for which Letters Patent were granted me on 3d day of March, 1874, and which in itself is an improvement on the original Bonnaz embroidering-machine patent of November 10, 1868. Both said machines being fully described in the specifications of the above Letters Patent, I restrict my present specification to those parts only which relate to the braiding mech anism and to its mechanical combination with the machine.

The casting A, in which the oscillating looper B plays, is much elongated, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, and is seciired to the bedplate 0 at its outer flanges only, while its center part remains entirelyfi'ree and has a collar turned upon its uppei"\face, upon which a cogged wheel, D, is fitted, which is geared with another cogged wheel, E, of equal diameter. The shaft of the wheel E turns in, and is supported by, the casting F, which is also secured to the lower face of the bed-plate O, and a small bevel-wheel, G, is secured to its lower end, and gears with another one, H, of the same diameter. The bevel-wheel H is secured to the sleeve I, in which the rod N Vibrates, and which operates the horizontal screw gear K, which turns the looper 13.. Upon turning the crank-handle S, which serves to guide the universal feed of the machine the sleeve I willbe turned by means of the gears r and s, owing to the sliding nut (1, which is secured to the rod N, and which Vibrates with said rod within a slot of the sleeve 1, and thus the wheels 8, 1", H, G, E, and D will be turned with it and with the changing di rection of the feed. On the upper face of the wheel D, there is a rim, 1), on which the disk (I is fitted, said disk being shown in plan and section at Figs. 3 and 4. It turns with the wheel D, and its center is in line with the needle 0 of the machine, which, during the operation, passes through the central hole in the disk (I. At the side of said central hole a slanting rectangular guide, h, is made in the disk (1, through which the braid B. is

passed, as represented in dotted lines on the drawings, said braid being wound upon the spool L, which is placed upon the spool-pin M,

and which latter is secured to the lower face of the wheel D, and thus turns with the same when the crank-handle S is turned by the operator, the braid passing from the spool L through the passage a in the wheel 1) into the braiding-guide h of the disk 61, and out of the same under the cloth and the needle.

Thus, as the braid passes out of the braiding-guide h, it is always presented to the action of the needle in such a manner that the latter must stitch right in its center in any position or direction of the feed, and thus sew it onto the cloth, and as the braid lies between the cloth-plate and between the cloth it follows that the plain stitching and not the embroidering chain stitch appears on the braid. This has also the advantage that the design which is to be braided can be marked on the wrong side of the cloth, and that 110 design or marks will show on the braided side.

Thus, as in the original Bonnaz embroidering-machine, any design can be embroidered without turning the cloth; so that in this machine I am enabled by means of my braiding mechanism and its turning braider to do any kind of braiding without turning the cloth.

To prevent the cloth from being deranged in its position by the turning braiding-disk (l, I have made the latter conical near its center, so that the small circle within which lies the guide h and the central needle-hole is raised above its surface, and that the said small surface only shallqbe in contact with the cloth, and this only within the rim of the circular'feed surface of the feeder T, which must be a trifle larger than the upper surface of its truncated cone.

The flat and lower surface of the disk d is covered by means of one or two sliding plates, 0, which are fitted within the bed-plate 0, an d which may be constructed similarly to those employed on the shuttle sewing-machines, so that they may be easily withdrawn to remove the braiding-disk, for the purpose of passing the braid through the guide h. The circular feeding-surface T of the machine thus bears upon said fixed plates 0, and is in no contact with the small raised surface of the braidingdisk (1, and the braid as it issues from its guide can turn freely within said feed-surface.

It is desirable that not only various sizes of braids, but also of needles, might be employed for executing different styles of work, and for that purpose I have made the central conical part of the disk 01 of a separate piece, 19, as shown at Figs. 3 and 4, and which is secured to the lower face of the disk (I by means of a screw, or otherwise, and which can thus easily be changed. In having a small number of said parts, withbraiding-guides and central holes of various sizes, any size of braid or thread may be worked with the machine.

The width of the braiding-guide It may also be made adjustable by means of two small levers, m, which are secured to the lower fa :e of the disk (I by means of screws 0, on which they can pivot. Their longer ends extend into the slot h, and a set-screw, a, which is screwed into the edge of the disk (Z, enters in between the two short arms of said levers, so that by turning the screw to the long ends of said levers are spread or contracted to widen or to reduce the mouth of the braiding-guide, the braid passing between the two levers m.

7 When a round cord is used instead of a flat braid, the passage to the braiding-guide is made round instead of rectangular.

The mechanism above described and illustrated is employed for doing the ordinary braiding work; but by imparting to the braiding-disk d an oscillating motion around its center, which in no way will impede its turning motion when acted upon by the crankhandle S, I obtain a fancy braiding or cording of a zigzag nature, which is produced in consequence of the braid or cord within the braidingdisk being thrown after each stitch out of the course of the needle, so that the latter will make alternately one stitch at its right and one at its left in continuation, whereby I obtain a braiding or cording work (represented at Fig. 8) which is highly ornamental, the single central line representing the thread, and the double undulated line the braid or cord. This oscillating motion of the braiding-disk d is obter described, and represented at Figs. 5, 6, and 7.

The cogged wheel I) is secured to the main wheel (1 which has double the diameter of the form er, and thus makes one revolution to every two of the wheel I). It operates the connection-rod f by means of the crank-pin g, and imparts to the rod F and to the screw-gear G a vertical reciprocating motion, and to the screw-gear G a horizontal oscillating motion on its axis. This same motion is imparted to the bevel-wheel P, which is secured to the same shaft Q as the gear G, and which transmits its oscillating motion to the vertical shaft n, to the wheel It, and consequently to the cogged wheels E and D, and to the braidingdisk d.

It will be observed that this oscillating mo tion of the braiding-disk and of its mechanism is not communicated to the other parts composing the stitching and feeding mechanism of the machine, which continue to work in the ordinary manner as the embroidering-machine but for the proper execution of the work, it is necessary that, while the braidin g-disk (1 makes its oscillating motion, it, as well as the other mechanisms, may be turned easily by means of the crank-handle S, so as to work in harmony with the universal feed-motion of the means: The lower part of the rod Ff slides within the sleeve A, to which the crank-ha1| dle S is secured, and it can be turned thereby upon its pivot-j oint K owing to the sliding nut g, which is secured to the rod F, and which slides within a slot in the sleeve A. To the upper end of said sleeve is secured the cogged wheel D, which drives another wheel, -E, secured to shaft K and from this latter shaft all the bevel-wheels 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, (-3, and H are operated, which combine the movements of the universal feed, and of the stitching apparatus when the crank handle S is turned, as described in the patent for the original Bonnaz embroidering-machine, and I thus obtain the oscillating motion of the braiding-disk (Z, while I can operate without any hinderance the entire mechanism of the machine by means of the crank-handle S.

If the machine is to execute the ordinary braiding or embroidery work, the mechanism which oscillates the braiding-disk d can be tained by means of the mechanisms hereinaf' Y shaft (1 of the machine, and drives the cogged machine, and this I obtain by the following uncoupled by shifting the crank-pin g into the central position, or to the dead-point in the wheel (1 so that the connection-rodf and the rod F do not operate, and by then shifting the wheel P away from the wheel R by means of the clutch w, and by bringing the wheel H in gear with the wheel G by means of the clutch y.

I will now describe my braiding apparatus when it is combined with the overseaming and embroiderin g machine for which Letters Patent were granted to me on 3d day of March, 187 4. The casting A, rim 1), wheels D and E, and the braiding-disk remain in every particular point the same as above described and illustrated their description need not, therefore, be repeated; but the wheel E, which drives the wheel D, is disposed somewhat differently, as appears by reference .to Figs. 9 and 10, which illustrate my braiding apparatus when combined with my overseaming-machine. The peculiarity of my overseamingmachine is that its feeder, as well as the needle and looper, is turned nearly half a revo lntion after each stitch. In combining my braiding apparatus with that machine, it is desirable that it should not participate in said oscillating or vibrating motion, so that the braid or cord should be guided in the central line of the overseaming stitch, so as to be laid entirely within the same, and thus produce an ornamental stitch, which is represented at Fig. 11, where the thick central line represents the braid or cord, and the -crosslines the over seaming stitch. Thus, while the essential mechanical devices of the overseaming-machine make the vibratory motion above described, the wheels D and E, and consequently the braiding apparatus remain stationary, and I obtain this result by gearing the wheel E directly from the shaft F, which operates the screw-gears G and G The vertical reciproto the square nut g, which is secured to it, and

which slides within a slot in sleeve A. Another sleeve, Y, is fitted within the upper part of the casting Z, and the rod F, which passes through it, slides therein by means of a square nut; z", and. can thus also be turned by the crank handle S. The pinion U is secured upon the sleeve Y, and drives the pinions V and W, both secured to shaft 00, and thus drives the pinion X and the wheels E and D, and consequently the braiding mechanism, which can be guided by means of the crank-handle S.

It will be observed that the pinions U and V, and consequently the braiding apparatus, do not participate in the vibrating movement of the mechanism which produces the overseaming stitch, and consequently the braid or cord is laid within said stitch, the needle stitching alternately each side of it.

Thus the same braiding mechanism produces three different kinds of braiding: First, when it works in combination with the Bonnaz embroidering-machine; second, when an oscillating motion is imparted to it, while operating in combination with the Bonnaz embroidering-machine; third, when it operates in combination with the overseaming-machine without participating in its vibratory motion.

Having thus fully described the nature of my invention, what I claim therein as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

The revolving braiding-guide and its operating mechanism, substantially as described, governed by means of the crank-handle of the machine, to present the braid in accordance with the direction of the feed to the needle, so that the needle will stitch in its center line, substantially as set forth.

E. OORNELY.

Witnesses:

R0131. M. HOSPER, LOUIS OoURNIs. 

